Macquarie Island in the Australian Sub-Antarctic, is home to a huge colony of these extraordinary penguins. The weather in this part of the world is notoriously rough. I was so fortunate to have calm seas and was able to come ashore two days in a row. The youngsters gather in a creche and look very funny as they lose their juvenile fluffy down and start to grow a sleek waterproof coat. Troops of penguins march up and down the beach, squabbling with giant elephant seals. Other penguins line up and form a swim club, diving in one by one. Somehow its all very orderly and very chaotic all at once. The whole scene is quite unforgettable.